May 2008 - Damaraland Camp
13 Jun 2008
'Only mad dogs and Englishmen go out (cycling) in the midday sun', or so the saying goes.
Recently, a group of ten Englishmen and women were neither cyclists nor particularly fit; some had not even been on a bike for 20 years since childhood. But the story of Mike Hearn is persuasive: his charisma, his extraordinary work for 12 years with Save the Rhino Trust (SRT), Namibia, and then his tragic death, aged 32, in Swakopmund.
Equally inspirational is the continuing work of SRT, the dedication of its 'soldiers' whom over 26 years have fought to save the desert-adapted black rhino (Diceros bicornis bicornis) and preserve a priceless habitat for all wildlife in the Kunene Region. Saving this rhino species is not simply about saving a primeval desert dwelling creature which appears to belong rather to the era of the dinosaurs rather than modern man; saving the rhino ensures the safe future of every species occurring in this area.
Thus ten unknowing British volunteers left their comfortable middle class homes in central London. They had no knowledge of Africa, but with faith they worked hard to fundraise for SRT, for the challenge to cross Damaraland by bike from Ugab to Palmwag through rocks and sand, travelling off road. An exceptional rainy season had turned the terracotta-coloured rocks to a vision of glorious savannah, but the season was tragically late. So the cyclists, who had expected the cool of the winter, were faced with soaring temperatures up to 45? Celcius. Debilitated by unaccustomed heat, the cycle became an endurance struggle. The dramatic rockscape of tabletop mountains, sandblasted cliffs in strange forms is wonderful to behold. Except between midday and 3pm on a couple of the days, when the gaze is grimly fixed to the track beyond the front wheel, focusing with determination just to get through the searing heat. Much of the terrain is loose gravel and sand through which one cycles is a hideous ordeal, expending precious energy and effort.
"Euphoric moments came a-plenty: dawn departure from World's End into the Palmwag Concession found us madly cycling alongside a herd of Hartmann's mountain zebra in the golden light. Fixed upon crossing the road, they ran with us for 50 metres before pulling ahead and cutting across our path, just a few metres ahead. Day Two found us cycling over fresh lion spoor. Similarly we were nervous to discover a large male lion had passed close to our tents in Ugab. But these euphoric moments were tempered by tough reality: Anne-Marie, a frail mother of two, flew over the handle bars. Covered in bruises and blood pouring from her head she was determined not to stop, and to complete the challenge. Skilful schooling by our leader Tokkie Bombosch found even the weakest cyclist conquering the appallingly steep pass at Fonteine on the Khorixas road."
The greatest exhilaration was the triumphant arrival into Damaraland Camp, a Wilderness Safaris joint venture with the local community. Its recent revamp with exquisite taste and design has produced hugely spacious rooms. The cyclists' expression was one of wonder and ecstasy, as they sank into the deep sofas, or slipped into the cool of the pool after four nights of camping in the dust and the wild. Then the final reward after seven days in the saddle was the glorious arrival at Mike Hearn's grave, near the Rhino Centre, Palmwag raising a glass of champagne to the setting sun and a glass of Meerlust (his favourite wine) at the celebratory dinner.
"The following day we set out for a day out rhino tracking with Rudi Loutit. The rains had dispersed the rhinos far and wide. We were tentative and not very hopeful. But the skilful trackers spotted spoor as early as 8.30 am and we were off on the trail. What a prize for all our efforts: a cow with tiny calf, and a bull in attendance. We followed on foot awestruck and rather scared lest they spot us. It was a beautiful end to an incredible journey."
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