Wilderness Safaris - Mana Canoe Trail

Mana Canoe Trail - late August 2008

15 Sep 2008

After arriving at Ruckomechi Camp and settling in, Kevin (camp guide) suggested an afternoon drive down to the Zambezi River for sunset. Drink in hand, and with elephants milling around us we inspected a Canadian canoe for stability and wondered what the following three days were going to bring. Hearing stories of wedding rings ending up in the River, the concern seemed to be more about the canoeing compatibility of one's partner rather than grumpy hippo. The sun had set and our adventure was waiting around the next bend in the mighty Zambezi. Driving back to camp we had good sightings of several nocturnal mammal species: African civet, large spotted genet and hyaena.

Next morning we opted for an early morning game drive - a side-striped jackal was enjoying the morning sun as we headed for concession areas with odd names like an open grassy plain dubbed 'the golf course' and a road called 'cat alley'. All around us was tall 'adrenalin' grass. Suddenly we caught sight of a lioness hiding in this grass with a couple of warthog in her sights. Our view was quite obscured so we circled around - ending up back at the spot where we thought we had seen her. 'She's not there!' we all cried out, only to hear squealing pig sounds just to our left. A bit of off-roading and we discovered the ambush site: two lionesses had caught a warthog in the adrenalin grass and were feeding on it.

Later that afternoon we headed out to meet our canoe safari guides. On the way we passed a herd of elephant, submerged up to their bellies and quietly feeding. The scene was surreal, as if straight out of a BBC wildlife documentary - David Attenborough's narrative voice was all that was missing.

After an initial family meeting about who should sit where, Tendai (our legendary river guide or should I say god) gave us a safety briefing, we selected our life jackets, waterproofed our digital gear and set off all while remembering our sacred wedding vows. The afternoon on the River turned out to be fine and we soon got over any reservations thinking, 'this is easy, we can do it!' 'One more kilometre and we would be at camp', remarks Tendai, so we joined together forming a raft. Well-earned drinks were distributed and as we approached the last bend before camp, LOTS of crocodiles were basking on the banks and a dead hippo floats into view. In all directions we counted thirty six crocodiles, all hoping for a piece of the action.

On we drifted and met up with the Mana Canoe Trail support staff for our first night's camping. The trail staff welcomed us and showed us to our tents where our bags had already been delivered. We took a tour of our fabulous campsite: the loo had a view and hot showers were beckoning. Dinner, can you believe it, was roast lamb with golden-roasted potatoes and fresh vegetables. With gin and tonics in hand, customary campfire chat was enjoyed for a while before it was time to retire to our comfortable tents.

No need for morning wake-up calls, everybody finds (smells) their way to the campfire for morning coffee with a continental breakfast spread soon appearing. I was told elephant were nearby during the night, but I soundly slept through their visit. Back in canoes, Tendai looks ahead scanning for hippo and the best route to avoid them. Thankfully they were all very accommodating - no need for protracted negotiations, they graciously let us pass on the shallow side.

We are delighted by Saddle-billed Storks fishing in the early light and other bird species everywhere - White-crowned Lapwing and Meve's Starling our constant orchestra. Southern Carmine Bee-eaters have arrived displacing the resident White-fronted Bee-eaters for nest sites in a sandy bank. We even spot a few birds sitting on their nests: Black-winged Stilts and African Skimmers - both being precocial birds, just modest scrapes in the sand with highly camouflaged eggs.

The canoeing is creatively interspersed with morning and afternoon walks back on terra firma. We are spoilt for choice - at least two herds of eland allow us good views, common waterbuck keep us under close observation and a sleeping hippo rests amongst the leaf litter of a shady tree. As we approach the hippo, single file and in silence, a Verreaux's Eagle-owl abandons his day time perch. Mr Hippo thankfully sleeps on. Back to the canoes for a cool Coke, time was spent watching an elephant herd mud bathing, the tiny one just wanted to romp around and share the love or the mud in this case!

Back on the River we jump at the chance of a swim in the shallow waters. Continuing downstream we see a buffalo herd on the right bank, elephants feeding among the albida trees as we slide past quietly. The elephants feeding antics were hilarious - stretching up on their back legs to reach the nutritious pods. Digital cameras were working overtime, Tendai constantly scanning ahead, confirming our route.

The lunch spread was enough to feed an army: fresh bread, vegetable tarts, meat pies and salads. A Yellow-billed Kite floats over and takes a birds-eye inspection of the lunch table. After lunch it's time for a siesta. 'No swimming here; don't even think about it', says Brian before wandering off to find a shady tree for forty winks. I close my eyes, but lie there wondering about every splash and chirp. A Black-backed Puffback calls and flits around in the bushes. There is a repetitive sound coming from the deep shade; I cannot possibly sleep and decide to seek out the source. There I find a lesser-spotted-snoring Bryan and a Bearded Woodpecker also fancied that tree.

The rest of the afternoon is more of the glorious same, walking and canoeing with animals and birds at every turn. We paddle on, seeing who can spot our camp site first. With glee we paddle towards our next camp site. Tents are set up and every detail thought of: cute mirrors, a potty for night time and a duvet and pillows promise a comfy night in Mana Pools. A bit of a ruckus from the baboons and Tendai has spotted something. 'There's a leopard down by the canoes if anyone wants to have a look', he casually announces.

The next day there is more talk between the men about the "pulling" power of their canoe buddies and singing from the girls to the tune of "stuck in the middle with you" by Stealer's Wheel. Our words were a little different - 'clowns (elephant) on the left of me, jokers (hippo) on the right, here I am, stuck in a canoe with you and yes mum that is a hippo over there'.

It's a long paddle to Chickwenya Island - about 3km. Finally we float in for lunch, and decide between setting up lunch in the river's cool waters or in the shade of trees. We enjoyed cold chicken drumsticks, salad rolls, pasta and bacon salad, coleslaw, beetroot, bean salad and vanilla cake. Having eaten far too much, we ease into the water for a refreshing dip. We absolutely trash the existing fishing record with the 'townies' achieving personal bests: A bream is the first catch, then a small tiger fish, which is released, then a cat fish. We head off for camp, knowing that chef is going to be delighted with our dinner contribution! Back to the canoes singing "stuck in a canoe with you". We negotiate the Chickwenya Rapids and with the setting sun arrive at our final camp site. We are utterly filthy, having had to wade through waist-deep mud, to avoid a pair of buffalo. Our camp hosts announce that we are to have chicken 'potjiekos' (traditional stew) for dinner - yummy!

Our final day starts with a leisurely wake up and breakfast overlooking the river; waterbuck, buffalo and ground hornbills are feeding on the opposite bank. We got news that our plane will be at Chickwenya strip at 9 am so we say our sad goodbyes to the Mana Canoe Team and take a short drive to the airstrip, stopping to look at an ancient baobab tree. Driving up to the airstrip Tendai notices a pack of wild dogs lying in the shade of a tree - it's as if they have been waiting there just to say 'Bon Voyage'. The plane was a bit late, but that is fine with us!


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Mana Canoe Trail - late August 2008