Exploring Damaraland and the Skeleton Coast

Oct 4, 2016 Trip Reviews
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We waved our aircraft off from the Palmwag airstrip, brimming with the inevitable excitement that comes at the start of an expedition. Months of preparation, planning and poring over maps had led us to our start point. The mission: to cross a good portion of Damaraland and the Skeleton coast, from Palmwag in the east to the Atlantic ocean in the west. We were to do this on foot and by vehicle into areas few other travellers have ventured.

Spectacular colours of a desert sunset

Not many people know this area better than Gerhard Thirion, and we were thankful to have him as our guide as we set off to find our team and camp for the night. On the way we climbed a rocky outcrop to view a beautiful black rhino bull as he browsed on a nearby euphorbia. The sight of our mobile tented camp, set amongst the vegetation surrounding a natural spring, was most welcome. We all quickly adapted to the wild camping life – aided of course by our crack team looking after us with hot bucket showers, sundowners and a delicious dinner! What a privilege to be all alone, under a blanket of stars, in the middle of a giant wilderness area.

Gerhard Thirion – our guide and expedition leader

A black rhino bull in Damaraland

We plotted our way through Damaraland, walking the dry river beds and rusted rocky hillsides, skirting the lumo green Euphorbia damaranas and following the desert adapted wildlife tracks as they converged on the life giving oases.

We had brilliant stars which could be properly appreciated from our campfire

Each evening we were greeted by the flickering lanterns and fire smoke (and cold Windhoek lagers!) of our much-beloved campsites. As we approached the Skeleton Coast our team pitched camp in a dry riverbed gorge, which is possibly the most remote place I have ever had the pleasure of spending a night. 200 metres from the camp, and deep in the gorge, a vertical rock face spilled a trickle of water into a tiny pool. Leading to that water source were tracks of elephant, black rhino, lion, brown hyaena, giraffe, oryx, baboon and springbok.

An elephant bull gives scale to the Hoanib riverbed

A herd of 150 + springbok in the floodplain

Wild camping on the way to the Skeleton Coast

Scaling the giant dunes towering over the Hoanib River we spent an afternoon with the area’s famed desert-adapted lions – in this case two lionesses and three cubs – and a number of stately elephant bulls. Using Hoanib Skeleton Coast camp as our new base, and the riverbed as our guide, we pushed on to the Atlantic Ocean, via desert oases and through the immense floodplain, filled with springbok, black-backed jackal and rodent-hunting augur buzzards. A few thousand Cape fur seals greeted us nonchalantly on arrival at the coast. A toast to the desert and ocean sadly signalled the end of an incredible expedition through some very special Namibian wilderness.

Cape fur seals at Mowe Bay

The famed desert lions resting up on a vegetated sand dune

A giraffe at first light

An immature Augur buzzard hunting rodents on the floodplain

Relief in the desert – an oasis we visited on the way to the Atlantic

Thank you to Gerhard and the Wilderness Safaris team for delivering a unique and outstanding experience.

Written and Photographed by Richard Anderson, Anderson Expeditions

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